Bali is the only Hindu island in the world’s largest Muslim archipelago. 5,780 km², 20,000 temples, two active volcanoes and a UNESCO irrigation system that has been engineering the rice terraces since the 11th century. I spent six days there in 2023 with one camera. This is the route that worked.
The 30-second snapshot
- Country: Indonesia, autonomous Hindu enclave
- Size: 5,780 km² — drivable end to end in 4 hours
- Religion: Balinese Hinduism, unique on Earth
- Active volcanoes: Mount Agung (3,031 m) and Batur (1,717 m)
- UNESCO: the subak irrigation system in the rice terraces
- Budget: €50–100/day. Cheap for Asia.
A 6-day route that actually works
Days 1–2 — Ubud. Rice terraces, temples, yoga if you must. The cultural base camp.
Day 3 — Mount Batur sunrise. Two-hour trek to the rim, 3 a.m. start. Worth every minute.
Day 4 — Northern temples. Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, floating on its lake. Tirta Empul for the sacred springs.
Day 5 — Southern coast. Uluwatu, the cliffside temple, and the kecak dance at sunset.
Day 6 — Canggu beach, or fly to Nusa Penida for the manta rays.
Understanding Balinese Hinduism
It’s not Indian Hinduism. It’s a 14th-century Javanese Shaivite import, fused with Mahayana Buddhism, animism (every tree, stone and stream has a spirit) and ancestor worship. You see it every morning in the canang sari: small flower offerings each family leaves at home, in the street, on the car, at the temple. Fifteen to twenty offerings per day per household. Bali doesn’t practise religion. Bali breathes it.
The temples you cannot skip
- Pura Besakih — the “mother temple” on the slope of Agung
- Tirta Empul — sacred-water purification, sarong required
- Uluwatu — 70 m cliff over the Indian Ocean, sunset plus kecak
- Tanah Lot — the postcard, on a tidal rock
- Pura Ulun Danu Bratan — the floating temple on Lake Bratan
Eat like a local
Nasi goreng: the everyday fried rice with egg, chicken and kerupuk. Bebek betutu: smoked duck cooked in palm leaves, Ubud style. Order it the day before. Satay lilit: minced-fish skewer on a lemongrass stick, served with sambal matah. Avoid the resort buffets.
Practical notes
- Visa: visa on arrival, US$35
- Currency: Indonesian rupiah; 1 EUR ≈ 17,000 IDR
- Transport: hire a driver per day (€30–50) or rent a scooter if you’re confident
- Light: golden hour at 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. — equatorial, predictable, brutal at noon
- When: April to October (dry season). Avoid Nyepi unless you want a 24-hour silent island
Going deeper
For the cultural side beyond the temples, read Bali beyond the cliché — photography & culture. Original in Spanish: guía en español. More on Instagram: @vidaiatzen.
