In 1974, three farmers digging a well outside Xi’an hit a clay head. Twenty-five years later, archaeologists had found the largest funerary discovery of the 20th century: 8,000 unique terracotta warriors guarding the tomb of the first emperor of unified China.
Xi’an is more than that. It was the capital of 13 imperial dynasties, the eastern terminus (or origin) of the Silk Road, and the only Chinese city with its complete Ming-era wall still standing. I went in 2016 with a camera. This is the honest summary.
Xi’an in 30 seconds
- Country: China, Shaanxi Province, north-west centre
- Metro population: 13 million
- 13 imperial dynasties based their capital here
- Silk Road km zero heading west to the Mediterranean
- Climate: continental — 35°C in summer, −5°C in winter
- Flights: no direct from Europe, transit Beijing or Shanghai
The Terracotta Army — how to visit without the crowds
The Mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang sits 40 km east of the city. Most coach tours arrive between 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. My advice: leave at 7:30 a.m. by taxi or subway plus shuttle. You’ll be at the gate when it opens (8:30) and have 90 minutes nearly alone before the avalanche.
There are three pits:
- Pit 1 — the big one. 6,000 warriors in battle formation. Spectacular.
- Pit 2 — smaller, with archers and cavalry. Some warriors still half-buried, which is photographically more interesting.
- Pit 3 — the command post. Only 68 senior officers.
Entry: 120 CNY (~€16). Cameras allowed, no tripods, no flash.
The wall — the best bike ride in China
Xi’an’s Ming wall is the only one left intact. 14 km perimeter, 12 m tall, 14 m wide on top. You can rent a two-seater bike (45 CNY for 100 minutes) and ride the full loop. The best plan for sunset in the entire country.
The Muslim Quarter — the Silk Road you can eat
Xi’an was the Chinese terminus of the Silk Road. That left a community of 60,000 Hui (Chinese Muslims), and their quarter (Huimin Jie) is the most intense food district in the city. What to try:
- Roujiamo — the 2,000-year-old Chinese hamburger. Full recipe here.
- Biangbiang noodles — hand-pulled, belt-wide, in chilli-vinegar broth
- Yangrou paomo — lamb soup with torn bread, the recipe is yours to assemble
- Lacquered pigeon — exactly as it sounds, in red sauce, on a stick
The 3-day route that works
Day 1: arrive, settle near the Bell Tower, evening walk in the Muslim Quarter, biangbiang noodles for dinner.
Day 2: early start to the Terracotta Army. Back to the city for lunch. Afternoon on the wall with a bike. Sunset from the south gate. Roujiamo dinner.
Day 3: Great Mosque (10th century, Tang dynasty), Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Buddhist, 7th century, brought scriptures from India). Fly out in the evening.
Practical notes
- Visa: required for most. 15-day transit visa exemption if flying onward.
- Currency: Chinese yuan (CNY); ~€1 = 7.8 CNY
- VPN: install before arrival. Google, Instagram, WhatsApp all blocked.
- Payments: Alipay or WeChat Pay. Cash is rarely accepted, foreign cards almost never.
Original in Spanish: guía de Xi’an. Follow more on @vidaiatzen.
