Naples is the most photogenic chaotic city in Italy. Four days is the minimum to do it without being a tourist.
Day 1 · Centro Storico
Spaccanapoli, the street that splits the city. Caravaggio at Pio Monte della Misericordia (Seven Acts of Mercy — chiaroscuro masterclass). Sansevero Chapel (Veiled Christ — booking essential). Pizza at Da Michele — only Margherita or Marinara, the choice is irrelevant, both are 5 euros and life-changing.
Day 2 · Pompeii
Train Garibaldi → Pompei Scavi (35 min). Spend 6+ hours inside. Villa dei Misteri on the western edge — most visitors skip it, it’s the highlight.
Day 3 · Vesuvius + Herculaneum
Climb Vesuvius (45 min from the parking lot to the crater rim). Then descend to Herculaneum — smaller than Pompeii but better preserved (wood, papyrus scrolls, frescoes still vivid). 90% fewer tourists.
Day 4 · Quartieri Spagnoli + Capodimonte
The Spanish Quarter at 7 AM: empty streets, hanging laundry, scooters parking against Renaissance facades. Best documentary photography of the trip. Afternoon: Capodimonte museum for more Caravaggio + the Farnese collection.
Where to stay
Hotel Piazza Bellini in Centro Storico — 95€/night, frescoed ceilings, 5 minutes from everything. Avoid the area around Stazione Centrale at night.
Full gallery on @vidaiatzen.