Spaccanapoli, the street that splits the city. Caravaggio at Pio Monte della Misericordia (Seven Acts of Mercy — chiaroscuro masterclass). Sansevero Chapel (Veiled Christ — booking essential). Pizza at Da Michele — only Margherita or Marinara, the choice is irrelevant, both are 5 euros and life-changing.

Climb Vesuvius (45 min from the parking lot to the crater rim). Then descend to Herculaneum — smaller than Pompeii but better preserved (wood, papyrus scrolls, frescoes still vivid). 90% fewer tourists.

Hotel Piazza Bellini in Centro Storico — 95€/night, frescoed ceilings, 5 minutes from everything. Avoid the area around Stazione Centrale at night.

Full gallery on @vidaiatzen.